Grinda is one of those islands that just works for a day trip. It’s close enough to reach from Stockholm without rushing, but still feels like you’ve escaped the city. Compared to more touristy spots like Vaxholm or harder-to-reach islands like Utö, Grinda hits that nice middle ground – with forest trails, swimming spots, and a laid-back vibe.
In this itinerary, you’ll start in central Stockholm and spend a summer day exploring Grinda. It’s best done between mid-June and mid-August, when ferries and cafés are running regularly.
Getting There: the adventure begins at Strömkajen
Our journey started at 7.30 am on a July morning at Strömkajen, the dock right in front of Stockholm’s iconic Grand Hôtel. We’d chosen the Waxholmsbolaget ferry over the faster (but pricier) Strömma option, partly for budget reasons and partly because we wanted the full archipelago experience, and that extra hour on the water proved well worth it.
Here’s what we learned about the ferry situation: it’s a good idea to arrive at least 30 minutes early. We thought we were being overly cautious, but when we arrived 30 minutes before departure, there were already about 20 people queued up on the docks. By the time our boat pulled in 10 minutes before departure, which was at 8 am, the line stretched impressively behind us.
The Waxholmsbolaget boats don’t have reserved seating, which initially worried us, but it actually adds to the adventure. As soon as we boarded, we made a beeline for the upper deck’s outdoor seating at the back of the boat – and what a decision that was. The usual trip with Waxholmsbolaget to Grinda is 2.5-hours. However, this morning trip made fewer stops, and was only 1.5 hours. The journey through Stockholm’s archipelago was like getting a private tour of thousands of tiny islands, red wooden houses perched on rocky shores, and sailboats dotting the blue waters.
Practical tip: You can buy tickets either through the SL app (select fare zone 4 when purchasing your ticket to Grinda) or onboard, at the ticket counter. We got our tickets in the SL app, but unless you are familiar with Waxholmsbolaget’s ticket system, we recommend you buy your tickets onboard. Just tell them that you are going to “Grinda” and they’ll sort you out. The cost was 125 SEK one way, though prices can change, so always check current rates.
If you buy your ticket through the SL app, wait to activate it until you’re onboard. Once on the boat, scan your digital ticket at the QR code reader. This will print a paper ticket, which you’ll be asked to show when getting off the boat.
First steps on Grinda: why this island is special
Stepping off the ferry at Södra Grinda (the southern dock) around 9:30 am, we immediately understood why this island has become such a beloved destination. The morning arrival meant we practically had the place to ourselves – something that would change dramatically by afternoon, but gave us a wonderfully calm introduction to the island.
The walk from the dock to the main facilities takes you along well-kept paths through quiet forest, eventually opening onto open grassy areas that feel a bit like a country park. This is a great example of Sweden’s allemansrätten (the right to roam in nature, including on private land), which lets you explore freely—as long as you respect the environment.
For families visiting: The main paths from the dock are stroller-friendly and generally suitable for visitors with limited mobility. However, the hiking trails are uneven and not accessible for wheelchairs or strollers.
Hiking the Stockholm Archipelago Trail
After a quick stop at the red information cottage near the inn – where you can pick up cottage keys or book the sauna – we reserved a 2 pm sauna slot. That gave us the perfect amount of time to tackle the Stockholm Archipelago Trail. And what an experience it turned out to be: the 9.8-kilometer (6.1-mile) loop around the entire island showcased everything we’d hoped to see in the Swedish archipelago.
We started at the southern dock and headed west, following the clearly marked yellow and light blue ribbons with “SAT” printed on them. The route is thoughtfully marked – it begins gently through beautiful forests before gradually introducing you to more challenging terrain as you build confidence.
The northern section gave us our first real “wow” moment at a stunning viewpoint overlooking the archipelago. We spent a few minutes here just taking photos and trying to count the islands stretching to the horizon. Definitely one of those Instagram-worthy spots that actually lives up to the hype.
As we continued northeast, the trail became more technical with some scrambling over rocks and roots. The northern coastline was particularly dramatic, with rocky outcrops perfect for photos and several spots where we stopped just to listen to the waves.
After just over three hours (including our photo stops), we completed the full loop feeling genuinely accomplished. The variety of terrain – dense forest, open meadows, rocky coastline, and those perfectly Swedish grass lawns – meant we never got bored.
Essential trail tips from our experience: Bring water (though there are refill stations around the island), wear shoes comfortable for walking, and pack some snacks. The trail has several restrooms, with composting toilets, but don’t count on toilet paper or hand soap in the more remote ones.
Lunch lessons: budget smart, eat well
By the time we finished our hike around 1 pm, we were ready for lunch and excited to try Grinda Wärdshus, the traditional inn perched dramatically on a hill overlooking the guest harbor. The outdoor terrace looked like the perfect spot for a leisurely meal with those spectacular views.
That’s when we learned our first important lesson about visiting Grinda in summer: make restaurant reservations in advance. Despite arriving at what we thought was a reasonable lunch hour, every table was booked until 3 pm. We had a sauna appointment at 2 pm, so waiting wasn’t an option.
Luckily, there was a good backup just a three-minute walk away: the Lanthandel, a traditional Swedish country store that ended up being our lunch spot. It’s a small, no-frills shop – Sweden’s version of a general store – selling basic groceries, household items, and a modest selection of ready-to-eat food.
We grabbed sandwiches with tuna, plus some chilled ice tea sweetened with fruits. We ended the meal with some ice cream, which was a great desert on this warm summer day. The outdoor seating area was relaxed and unpretentious, exactly what we needed after our morning hike. Best of all, our entire lunch cost a lot less than what we would have spent at the inn, leaving more budget for other experiences.
Budget tip: The Lanthandel showed that you don’t need to spend a lot to have a decent lunch on Grinda. The inn is still worth considering if you’re after the full traditional experience and can get reservations, but the store offers good value for something quick and simple. There are also several picnic spots over the island if you prefer to bring your own food.
The sauna experience: pure Swedish magic
With full bellies and perfect timing, we headed to our 2 pm sauna appointment at Källviken beach. This was the part of our day I’d been most excited about. There’s something quintessentially Swedish about combining sauna with cold water swimming, and Grinda’s setup promised to be ideal.
When we arrived at the beach, we found the red wooden building marked “Bastu” (sauna) right next to the sandy swimming area and rocky shore. The previous guests had already left, and in a small gesture that perfectly reflects the trust and tranquility of archipelago life, they’d simply left the key in the unlocked sauna for us. Try that in any major city!
The facility was simple but did the job: a modest changing room that could comfortably fit around eight people, three showers, and a standard electric sauna with space for up to ten. The inn staff had preheated it for us, so we could step right in and get started. That said, parts of the setup could use a bit of maintenance. The sauna door didn’t lock properly – you had to secure it with a string – and even then, it didn’t fully seal, which meant hot air escaped unless someone inside held it shut. The changing room also got quite hot, likely due to the sauna door not fully closing, so be prepared to change quickly. One tip: when you’re in the sauna, it’s a good idea to lock the outer door, as several people mistook it for a public changing room and tried to walk in.
But the real highlight was stepping out of the hot sauna and walking just a few steps to the wooden jetty that extends into the Baltic Sea. That first plunge into the cool, brackish water (less salty than typical seawater) after the heat was incredibly refreshing – one of those moments that reminds you why you came.
We alternated between sauna sessions and sea dips for our full hour, and each transition felt better than the last. The rocky shoreline and wooden jetty just steps from the sauna, it felt like a simple, no-frills version of a natural spa – relaxing in the way only the Swedish archipelago can be.
Practical details
- Towels: You can bring your own, but if you’d rather pack light, towels are available to rent at the inn.
- Payment: Credit cards are accepted everywhere on the island. Like most of Sweden, Grinda is almost entirely cashless.
- Price: The sauna costs 500 SEK per hour, regardless of group size (up to 10 people). It’s a fair price for a peaceful and scenic experience—especially if shared with friends or family.
Afternoon exploration: harbor life and hidden gems
After returning the sauna key to the inn, we were tired and took some time to relax by the guest harbor. It turned out to be a nice spot for a bit of people-watching, with boats coming and going and a mix of day-trippers and overnight guests passing through. The harbor has space for around 28 boats, and while there were some sailing yachts, most of the boats moored that day were motorboats.
We’d already eaten, but still decided to grab a beer at the seaside restaurant to enjoy the atmosphere. It was lively in the afternoon sun, with groups chatting over drinks on the terrace and the harbor activity just in view.
If you’re after something quieter, there’s also a natural harbor on the island’s south side near the Sea Lodge. This area felt much more peaceful and was a good escape from the busier parts of the island.
The journey home: perfectly timed
We arrived at the southern dock about 30 minutes before our 4 pm departure back to Stockholm – and were glad we did. A small crowd had already started to gather, and by the time the Waxholmsbolaget ferry pulled in, the line had grown noticeably longer.
The boat was already carrying passengers from farther out in the archipelago, but there were still plenty of seats left – though, as always, you had to be quick to get the good ones. This ferry was larger than the one we arrived on, with more indoor seating and fewer outdoor spots, and overall felt a bit more modern and comfortable.
As we boarded, the crew asked where we’d be getting off – they needed to know this because the ferry only stops at docks where passengers are boarding or disembarking. We simply said “Stockholm,” which allowed us to choose between Slussen or Strömkajen (where we had started).
The return journey gave us a quiet moment to rest and take in the passing scenery. We were tired after a full day of walking, swimming, and exploring, but it was still a calm and scenic ride home. The afternoon light had a softer quality compared to the morning, casting a warm glow over the landscape as we sailed back through the islands.
Why Grinda hit all the right notes
Looking back, Grinda delivered everything we’d hoped for from a Stockholm archipelago experience. The hiking challenged us without being overwhelming, the sauna and swimming created that quintessential Swedish moment we’d dreamed about, and the overall experience felt authentically Swedish rather than touristy.
What made Grinda special compared to other archipelago islands was this perfect balance: accessible enough for a comfortable day trip from Stockholm, wild enough to feel like a real nature escape, and developed enough to offer proper facilities without feeling commercialized.
The combination of the Stockholm Archipelago Trail, the traditional sauna experience, the variety of dining options, and that incredible archipelago scenery created exactly the kind of day that makes you fall in love with Sweden.
Our advice is to book that sauna time and lunch at the Grinda Wärdshus in advance, pack proper hiking shoes and towels, bring your camera for those incredible viewpoints, and most importantly, give yourself enough time to simply sit on those rocky shores and soak in the peaceful magic of Swedish island life.
Some experiences can’t be rushed, and Grinda is definitely one of them.