Svartsö is an island in Stockholm’s central archipelago that combines a wild, natural setting with modern comforts. What sets Svartsö apart from other archipelago destinations is its genuine remoteness. Its appeal lies in its remoteness—far enough from the city to feel like a true escape, yet home to excellent dining, comfortable accommodations, and well-maintained trails.
Unlike crowded day-trip islands or remote destinations with few amenities, Svartsö offers the best of both worlds: you can hike the Stockholm Archipelago Trail through pristine forests and along dramatic coastlines, then unwind over a good meal at a restaurant or relax in a waterfront sauna. Stay in comfortable hotel rooms, try glamping by the water, or arrive with your own boat and explore the trail loops that showcase the island’s natural beauty.
When to visit
Peak season runs from late June to mid-August. Shoulder seasons are May to late June (spring) and mid-August to October (autumn).
The island is accessible year-round, and visiting in the off-season – from October to April – offers a quieter, more relaxed experience. Ferries operate throughout the year, and the hotel and hostel in the island’s north remain open even in winter.
Getting there
Whether you take the public ferry or arrive in your own boat, getting to Svartsö is part of the adventure. Watching the islands of the archipelago drift by is one of the pleasures of the trip.
Waxholmsbolaget
How to travel: Waxholmsbolaget boats depart from Strömkajen quay in Stockholm, right in front of the Grand Hôtel. The closest metro station is Kungsträdgården, about a 3-minute walk away. Svartsö has four docks, choose your arrival dock based on where you want to start exploring:
- Norra Svartsö (north) – 2-minute walk to the Svartsö Archipelago Hotel & Hostel
- Söderboudd (east) – 8-minute walk to the eastern loop of the Stockholm Archipelago Trail
- Skälvik (south) – 18-minute walk to Bistro Sågen
- Alsvik (southwest) – 4-minute walk to the Svartsö Logi glamping tents and Svartsö Krog.
Travel time: 2.5 to 3 hours one way, depending on your departure time and chosen dock.
Price: 154 SEK one way (as of 2025, always check current rates as prices may change).
How to buy tickets: Buy through the SL app (select Waxholmsbolaget, fare zone 5) or onboard at the ticket counter. If you’re unfamiliar with Swedish public transport, buying onboard is easiest, just say which dock you’re getting off at and staff will help you to choose the right ticket.
Boarding tips: Arrive 30 minutes early, especially in high season, as queues form quickly. Remember to raise the semaphore at the dock to signal that you’re waiting to board.
Why choose Waxholmsbolaget: Unless you have your own boat or take a boat taxi, Waxholmsbolaget is the most practical way to reach Svartsö. They have several daily departures,reasonable ticket prices, and tickets don’t need to be pre-booked but can be purchased onboard.
Traveling with your own boat
Svartsö’s guest port is on the south side of the island near the Alsvik docks. Berths cost 385 SEK per day (as per 2025) and can be booked online via Dockspot: Svartsö Gästhamn. The port has restrooms and showers, and there’s a café and grocery store right next to the dock.
What to expect
Svartsö is best enjoyed with at least a few days in the archipelago. The ferry from central Stockholm takes nearly three hours, and the island is noticeably less crowded than more accessible spots like Fjäderholmarna or Grinda.
The Stockholm Archipelago Trail has two loops here: a larger one in the west and a smaller one in the east. Both are easy walks, following broad gravel roads and smaller forest paths.
There are three dining options on the island: the restaurant Bistro Sågen, the high-end restaurant Svartsö Krog where you can have a four-course dinner and start the dinner with oysters and champagne.
Visitors have access to two saunas. The northern sauna, near the Svartsö Archipelago Hotel & Hostel, is newly built and has an indoor shower, bathroom, and a large lounge area, plus an outdoor space leading down to the water. It can be booked online via the Norra svartsö beach page and is open to the public even if you’re not staying at the hotel. The southern sauna is wood-heated and just a few minutes from Bistro Sågen – details and booking are available at Bastuplatsen: Aborrvass bad.
Accomodation
Svartsö Archipelago Hotel & Hostel
This combined hotel and hostel offers two types of private rooms with only a small price difference. The main distinction is that hostel rooms give you more self-service options – such as bringing your own bed linen, cleaning the room yourself, and using communal showers – which lowers the cost.
Hotel rooms include made beds with linen, a private bathroom and shower with towels, daily cleaning, and breakfast.
Hostel rooms have a private bathroom and shared showers in the main building. You make your own bed and either bring your own linen or rent it for a fee. Cleaning is your choice – do it yourself or pay extra – and breakfast is optional for an added charge. There are no dormitories; all rooms are private.
Free wifi is available throughout the property and performed well during our visit . Check-in is from 3 pm, and check-out is at 11 am. Breakfast is served between 8:30 and 10 am in a large indoor dining area, with additional seating on a spacious patio that gets morning sun – a pleasant spot to start the day.
Svartsö Logi glamping tents
The Svartsö Logi glamping tents are extremely popular, so booking requires some planning. Each year’s availability is released on February 1, and spots fill quickly. There are only five bookable tents, located just by the water down the hill from the restaurant Svartsö krog. The tents are set right by the water, down the hill from Svartsö Krog, offering a unique mix of closeness to nature and the comfort of a real bed in a spacious, cozy tent.
Guests use the toilets at Svartsö Krog, which are open around the clock. There are no showers, this is a real camping experience – you’ll get sea soap to wash up in the sea. Breakfast is delivered to your wooden deck each morning, and a five-course dinner at Svartsö Krog is included in the booking.
The whole experience feels both luxurious and simple at the same time. This might explain why this is such a popular choice.
How Svartsö compares to other archipelago islands
Each island in the Stockholm archipelago has its own charm – that’s part of what makes exploring them so rewarding. Svartsö is far enough from Stockholm to feel like a true escape, yet large enough to avoid the bustle of islands closer to the city.
Who it’s for: Travellers looking for a quieter, nature-focused stay with hiking trails, a handful of dining options, and enough space to feel unhurried – even in summer.
Vaxholm: Historic charm and easy accessibility, but fewer wilderness hiking opportunities.
Sandhamn: Lively nightlife and a party scene, but more expensive and crowded in summer.
Utö: Rich mining history and unique heritage, but requires a longer journey with train, bus, and ferry connections.
Grinda: Very accessible with good day-trip facilities, but more crowded and has less wilderness.
Essential packing list
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Swimwear and towel
- Sunscreen and insect repellent
- Water bottle
- Hand sanitizer
- Camera for those Instagram-worthy shots
- Sweater or a light jacket (weather can change quickly)
Conclusions
Svartsö strikes a rare balance between wild, natural beauty and modern comfort. It’s ideal if you want to experience the archipelago’s wilderness without giving up quality dining, comfortable lodging, and well-maintained facilities. While the nearly three-hour journey from the city center requires some time commitment, this distance is precisely what preserves the island’s tranquil character and ensures you’ll have space to truly disconnect.
Planning ahead will help you make the most of your visit. Whether you’re drawn by the prospect of hiking the Stockholm Archipelago Trail, indulging in world-class dining at Svartsö Krog, or simply unwinding in one of the waterfront saunas, Svartsö delivers experiences that justify the journey. The variety of accommodation options – from the practical hotel and hostel to the coveted glamping tents – means the island can accommodate different travel styles and budgets.
Unlike Sandhamn’s party atmosphere or Grinda’s day-trip crowds, Svartsö invites you to slow down and embrace archipelago life. The island works best for travelers who can dedicate at least two days to the experience, giving enough time to explore both the natural beauty and the activities on the island without feeling rushed.
For those seeking a true escape from Stockholm’s urban energy – wild enough to feel like an adventure, yet civilized enough to be fully comfortable – Svartsö delivers the archipelago at its finest.
