In October 2024, the Stockholm Archipelago Trail (SAT) opened. For the first time in history, the archipelago links more than 20 islands across 270 km (168 miles) in a coherent sequence of trails with clear waymarks. Trails that locals have been hiking for decades, but that were often tricky for outsiders to follow, are now easier to navigate thanks to consistent trail markers and ferry connections that make island-hopping doable for hikers.
You don’t need technical hiking skills for any of the 22 trail sections. The terrain varies from easy gravel roads to rockier forest paths with roots and uneven ground, but anyone comfortable with a few hours of walking can manage it. The main challenges are slippery granite after rain and steep hills in some sections.
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This four-day itinerary takes you through three of the central archipelago’s most accessible islands: Svartsö, Finnhamn, and Ingmarsö. Each island offers something different: Svartsö and Ingmarsö are both living islands year-round, but they feel different: Svartsö has five lakes, a high-end restaurant and glamping, while Ingmarsö adds a cultural layer with its local museum and a long history dating back to the Viking Age. Finnhamn, meanwhile, is at its liveliest in summer, with a communal sauna and a vibrant restaurant by the water.
Plan for June through August, when accommodations, restaurants, and saunas operate at full capacity. Book 1-2 weeks ahead for July, when demand peaks between Midsummer and early August. June and late August are less crowded, but you may need to be flexible with timing, since ferry departures are usually most frequent from late June to mid-August.
This route works for moderately fit hikers comfortable walking 5-8 km (3-5 miles) per day on mixed terrain. No technical climbing skills are required, though you’ll navigate rocky shorelines and tree roots. Bring proper footwear, and expect your legs to feel it by day three.
Day one: Svartsö
Morning: Trip to Svartsö
Start the day at the Strömkajen quay, in front of Grand Hôtel. Waxholmsbolaget’s ferries depart daily from here. Check the timetable on Waxholmsbolaget’s website. If you want a good seat with a view, it’s worth showing up around 30–40 minutes early. There’s usually a queue at the dock, and the earlier you arrive, the better your chances of getting a seat you’re happy with.
Take an early morning departure (often just after 8 am). The boat ride takes about two and a half hours, so you’ll arrive at Svartsö sometime before 11 am.
Tickets are bought on board. The simplest option is to go to the ticket office on the boat, say where you’re getting off (Svartsö Norra), and they’ll calculate the fare for you.
You can also buy your ticket in the SL app, but you still need to scan it on board to print a paper ticket/receipt. Keep that paper ticket and hand it to the staff when you get off. If you forget to print it during the ride, you may not be allowed to disembark until you’ve printed a ticket.
It’s usually best to find a seat first and buy your ticket afterwards. If the weather is good,many passengers head straight for the upper deck, where you can sit outside. For views, the seats along both sides of the boat tend to be the best. If it’s raining, windy, or you’d rather avoid the sun, there are plenty of seats inside too, both on the entry level and on the second floor.
11 am: Arriving at Svartsö
Get off at the quay Norra Svartsö. From here, it’s a short walk to Svartsö Archipelago Hotel & Hostel, where you can drop off your bags. Check-in is from 3 pm, but you can leave your bags at reception and head out on the Stockholm Archipelago Trail, which passes right by the hostel.
Afternoon: Lunch and hiking the Svartsö trail section
12 pm: Lunch at Bistro Sågen
Leave the hostel area and turn right at the four-way junction onto the broad gravel road. The trail is marked here, but the markers are a bit further apart since you’re walking on a main road.
After about 5 minutes, you’ll reach the eastern loop of the trail at a three-way junction by lake Stoträsket. Turn left and continue east. You’ll pass two more junctions where the trail splits in different directions. Stay on the main path until you reach a downhill stretch through the forest, which leads you straight to restaurant Bistro Sågen.
Bistro sågen serves both locally produced meat dishes and vegetarian options. Their signature burger comes on a brioche bun with jalapeño mayo. Depending on the weather, you can sit outdoors or inside.
If you’re visiting in July, it’s a good idea to reserve a table even for lunch, especially on warm sunny days.
1 pm: Hiking on Svartsö
After lunch, head back the way you came until you reach the last three-way junction. Turn left to rejoin the main loop and continue west. The trail passes two lakes: Stora Träsket to your right and Lilla Träsket on your left.
Svartsö has five lakes in total, which makes it a good island for a swim if you prefer slightly warmer water than the sea.
Continue south on the loop. You’ll pass the local grocery store, the guest harbor, and a small café just by the water. It’s a good spot to stop for a coffee or an ice cream.
The ice cream is artisan made and comes from Italienaren i Gubbängen, a café in Stockholm that makes their own gelato.
After the café, the loop continues north. A little further on, the gravel road ends and the trail shifts to narrower forest paths. You’ll pass a few houses and open pastures.
Svartsö is a living island year-round, so parts of the trail go near residents’ homes. Take it slow and enjoy the quiet mix of forest and farmland – that variety is a big part of what makes Svartsö feel special.
Eventually, you’ll return to the three-way junction by the lake Stora Träsket. This time, take the left turn and head north back to the hostel. The hike takes about 2 hours, and with a few stops for ice-cream, photos and brief stops for resting, you should be back in time for the check-in at 3 pm.
4 pm: Check in at the hostel
Once you’re back at the hostel, check in and get settled in your room. There are tables and chairs on the porch, and you can also sit in the communal dining room in the main building.
Take some time to relax, read a book, take a nap, or have a fika. You can order tea or coffee, snacks, and ice-cream at the reception desk.
5 pm: Sauna at Svartsö’s northern shore
After some rest, head down to the sauna. It’s only a 3-minute walk from the hostel. Walk back towards the quay where you arrived this morning. The sauna is on the water front, just to the left of the quay.
Make sure you’ve pre-booked the sauna, since it’s rented by one group at a time. Your booking gives you the whole sauna for an hour.
The sauna opened in 2024 and is thoughtfully designed. You enter through a spacious indoor relaxation area with sofas and tables, and from there you continue into the sauna.
We visited in the evening, and feeling the cold water against your skin after the heat of the sauna really does release some endorphins. We loved the details of the shoe rack with slippers. The sauna provides slippers so that you don’t need to bring your own when walking down to the water. There’s also a large indoor relaxation space for breaks, plus separate shower and toilet facilities in the same building.
After the sauna, you’ll have some time to relax and change for dinner.
Evening: Dinner and spend the night at Svartsö
7 pm: Dinner at Svartsö Krog
Svartsö Krog is on the southern end of the island. Pick up your pre-booked bikes and follow the gravel roads down to the restaurant. The ride takes about 20 minutes.
The restaurant serves a 4-set dinner (vegetarian option available), and there’s also a smaller à la carte menu. This is one of the most mentioned restaurants in the archipelago, known for their well-composed dishes and high-quality ingredients.
10 pm: Sleep at Svartsö Hostel
After dinner, cycle back to the hostel. In summer the sun sets late at night so you don’t have to worry about going home in the dark even if dinner runs late.
Get a good night’s rest. Tomorrow, you’ll continue to the next island.
Day two: Finnhamn
Morning: Breakfast and travel to Finnhamn
8:30 am: Breakfast at Svartsö Hostel
Breakfast is served in the dining room, and you can also sit outside. Pick up your breakfast basket at reception and help yourself to tea or coffee. The outdoor patio is quiet at this time of day and looks out over the waterfront.
The boat to Finnhamn leaves around 10:45 am, so you’ll have time to enjoy Svartsö a bit longer. Take a short walk, read a book, explore the nearby area, or simply linger over a second cup of coffee.
10:45 am: Travel to Finnhamn
The boat ride to Finnhamn takes about 50 minutes. You’ll depart from the same quay you used when arriving on Svartsö, and you’ll arrive at the northern end of Finnhamn.
Finnhamn is actually three islands connected by bridges: Stora Jolpan (the center and main island), Lilla Jolpan (the smaller island to the east) and Idholmen (to the west). The ferry drops you at Stora Jolpan, where you’ll find a restaurant, a café, and the hostel where you will be staying.
11:35 am: Hiking at Finnhamn
Finnhamn is mainly a summer destination. Aside from seasonal staff, there are no permanent residents, and it’s especially popular with locals after midsummer and throughout July.
If you don’t want to carry your bags, you can hand them over at the quay. There’s usually someone there with a small vehicle and a trailer transporting luggage to the accommodations. If you prefer to carry everything yourself, the hostel is about a 10-minute walk from the quay.
At the hostel, you can leave your bags in the lounge, then head out to explore.
The Stockholm Archipelago Trail has three loops on the Finnhamn section. Start with the main loop heading north. It passes right by the hostel, so you can simply follow the path counterclockwise until you reach the junction where the bridge leads to the western island.
Afternoon: Lunch outdoors and explore the views from the hills
12:30 pm: Lunch outdoors
When you reach the turn-off to Idholmen, you’re at one of Finnhamn’s main gathering spots. The guest harbour, Paradisviken, is on your left, and there’s a beach straight ahead. Right on the beach you’ll find Ragnars kiosk. From here, you can either settle in by the water or keep walking on the Stockholm Archipelago Trail, depending on what you feel like.
Just above the guest harbor are a few low hills with views over the boats. It’s a nice place to eat your packed lunch, with wooden benches and trees that give shade on sunny days.
In the northwestern part of Finnhamn, there’s another beach where you can swim, and in summer you can also rent a kayak or a SUP. If you have the energy, continue north and explore the trails in this part of the island.
1 pm: Hiking on Idholmen (Finnhamn)
After lunch, continue past the beach and head up onto the island Idholmen. This is one of the most scenic part of the day. The trail takes you over higher ground with views across bays and narrow sounds to the islands beyond.
Some stretches follow forest paths with viewpoints from the rocks, while others take you along gravel roads past pastures and meadows. Keep an eye out for the small farm shed where locals sell vegetables, eggs and vegetable oils.
4 pm: Check in at Finnhamn hostel
By the time you’re back, your room should be ready. Check in, get settled, and take some time to unwind after the hike. The hostel has a comfortable lounge, and you can also sit in the dining room and grab something to drink or snack on.
5 pm: Sauna at Finnhamn
In the evening, once the temperature has dropped a little, head down to the sauna. It’s on the northwestern part of the main island, between Finnhamns Krog and the hostel.
Reserve a spot via the Finnhamn website. It’s a large sauna with space for up to 15 people per session, and you’ll be sharing it with others who have booked the same timeslot.
When we visited, there was only one other family, so the sauna felt spacious. We also liked the setting, with a wooden walkway down to the rocky shore. The cold dip was incredibly refreshing, and going straight back into the heat afterwards felt even better.
Evening: Dinner and spend the night at Finnhamn
7 pm: Dinner at Finnhamns Krog
If you’re not ready to turn in after dinner, the hostel lounge is a nice place to wind down. You can read a book, chat, or just enjoy the quiet evening. There are plenty of comfortable armchairs to sink into.
Day three: Lilla Jolpan (Finnhamn) and Ingmarsö
Morning: Breakfast and explore the southern island
8 am: Breakfast at Finnhamn Hostel
Breakfast is served in the large dining room upstairs. You’ll usually find bread with spreads, boiled eggs, yogurt, coffee, tea, and waffles. There’s a small outdoor patio with a few tables, as well as a large indoor dining room.
9 am: Hiking the Lilla Jolpan loop
The southern loop starts right by the hostel. Follow the trail southeast towards the island Lilla Jolpan. You’ll walk through forest paths and cross a bridge that connects the main island to Lilla Jolpan.
On Lilla Jolpan, the trail stays in the forest and has a few more technical patches with rocks and roots. In summer, mosquitoes can be common here, so it’s worth bringing bug repellent. Even so, it’s a scenic walk, with a nice mix of forest and shoreline views.
Before you cross the bridge, consider a short detour on the main island to climb the lookout tower for wide views over the archipelago.
12:30 pm Boat to Ingmarsö
The boat to Ingmarsö leaves at 12:30 pm and takes about 20 minutes.
You’ll arrive at the north quay on Ingmarsö. From there, follow the gravel road south past Ingmarsö Bed & Breakfast. Drop off your bags, then continue in the same direction towards the bakery and restaurant. The Stockholm Archipelago Trail leads you there, and it’s about a 15-minute walk from the B&B.
Afternoon: Lunch and explore central Ingmarsö
1:15 pm Lunch at Ingmarsö Bageri
The bakery sits in a quiet patch of forest, just a short detour from the trail. With its garden and decorated wooden deck, it feels like a little oasis. The menu usually includes salads, pizza, and a few lunch specials, plus plenty of sweet options if you want a Swedish fika afterwards. We had ice cream, which was a perfect break from hiking.
After lunch (and fika), continue the loop counterclockwise. You’ll cross the centre of the island on a broad gravel road, which eventually brings you back to Ingmarsö Bed & Breakfast.
4:30 pm Check in at Ingmarsö Bed & Breakfast
After you’ve checked in and settled into your room, you’ll have a few hours to relax or keep exploring. You could take a swim near the northern shore where you arrived, take a nap, or head out and continue exploring the island.
7:30 pm: Dinner at Ingmarsö Krog
For dinner, head to the restaurant Ingmarsö Krog, down by the water on the southern part of the island. It’s a 15-minute walk from the B&B.
The restaurant sits by the guest harbor and has dining rooms on two floors, plus a large outdoor seating area by the water. The menu mixes traditional and modern Swedish dishes, with both seafood and meat options. We had the salmon with potatoes, eggs, and a fresh summer salad, and the smash burger with fries and chili aioli. Both were excellent.
10 pm: Stay the night at Ingmarsö B&B
The B&B has six rooms across two main houses. In summer, you can also stay in the former woodshed or the stable, both of which have been converted into guest rooms. They are not isolated for winter, but they are great for a summer stay.
Day 4: Ingmarsö and trip back to Stockholm
Morning: Breakfast and exploring eastern Ingmarsö
8:30 am: Breakfast at Ingmarsö Bed & Breakfast
Have breakfast at your accommodation. They serve a mix of locally produced items, such as bread, eggs, yoghurt, and granola.
9 am: Hiking and biking on eastern Ingmarsö
After breakfast, checkout and if you can leave your bags at the B&B for a few hours while you explore the island.
You can rent a bike at the guest harbor and use it to explore the eastern part of the island. The trail continues all the way to the northeastern shore, where you can see Finnhamn across the strait. The gravel roads are broad and well maintained, which makes cycling easy.
On the way, you’ll pass a swimming area by Femsundsviken bay. A bathing jetty takes you directly to the sea, which is perfect on a warm summer day.
Afternoon: Trip back to Stockholm
12 pm: Getting ready to leave
Pick up something for lunch at the Coop convenience store by the southern quay, and bring it with you to eat on the boat back to Stockholm.
12:50 pm: Boat back to Stockholm
The boat back to Stockholm departs from the northern quay, the same one where you arrived. You’ll be back at Strömkajen quay in Stockholm at around 3:30 pm.
The ride back is scenic, with island views almost the whole way. If the weather is good, it’s worth sitting outside and watching the islands, small settlements, and lighthouses as you pass by. You can eat the lunch you picked up on Ingmarsö, or buy something from the onboard café and enjoy the journey.
Practical details
Payment options: Restaurants, grocery stores, cafés, and hostels on these islands generally accept credit cards, so you usually don’t need cash. Bring a Visa or Mastercard. American Express isn’t accepted everywhere.
Opening hours: Restaurants typically close around 10-11 pm. Grocery stores are open 9 am-5 pm, but hours can vary by season and day, so it’s worth checking their websites before you go.
Cost breakdown
This is our cost breakdown for two people doing this route in July 2025. This is a mid-level spending for this kind of trip, and you can definitely spend less, primarily by cutting down on the food costs. We didn’t splurge, but we also didn’t hold back on eating out or ordering what we felt like having.
Food is the biggest cost If you choose simpler meals, or cook some of your own food (there are communal kitchens on both Svartsö and Finnhamn), you can bring down the total quite a bit.
- Accommodation: 5,605 SEK ($587 / €477 / £450)
- Food: 6,305 SEK ($660 / €574 / £503)
- Activities: 750 SEK ($79 / €68 / £60)
- Transportation: 1,120 SEK ($117 / €102 / £89)
Grand total: 13,780 SEK ($1,444 / €1,256 / £1,102) for 2 people
Pre-book
To make the most of your archipelago stay, it helps to pre-book a few accommodations and activities. Below is a list of what you’ll likely need to book in advance (with links).
In July, book 1-2 weeks ahead, since that’s the busiest time of year.
Day 1
- Accomodation and breakfast at Svartsö Hotel & Hostel: 1 night
- Lunch at Bistro Sågen: 12 pm
- Sauna at Svartsö Hotel: 4 pm
- Dinner at Svartsö Krog: 7 pm
- Bikes at Svartsö Hotel & Hostel: book at reception
Day 2
- Accomodation and breakfast at Finnhamn Hostel: 1 night
- Sauna at Finnhamn: 5 pm
- Dinner at Finnhamns Krog: 7 pm
Day 3
- Accomodation and breakfast at Ingmarsö Bed and Breakfast: 1 night
- Dinner at Ingmarsö Krog: 7:30 pm
- Bikes at Svartsö Bed & Breakfast: book at the accommodation
Bottom line
This four day trip through Stockholm’s central archipelago is a solid introduction to hiking in the Stockholm Archipelago. The trail sections are generally easy to moderate level, and you don’t need any special gear beyond good walking shoes and weather-appropriate clothing.
All three islands are reachable by public ferry, so you don’t need a boat of your own. The time slots for the boat rides in this itinerary are approximate, since timetables vary by weekday and season. Check the latest departures on Waxholmbolaget’s website before you go.
Svartsö, Finnhamn, and Ingmarsö each have their own character, and over four days you’ll see a mix of forests, open meadows, rocky viewpoints, and shoreline paths. In the evenings, you can wind down with archipelago dinners, and you’ll have several chances for saunas and swims along the way. It’s a great introduction to hiking in the Stockholm Archipelago.
